We set out from our apartment in Pogradec for a simple day trip to Korçë. Since the bus station is less than a mile away, it’s an easy walk up Boulevard Europa and Rruga Industriale, which is lined with cafés, coffee shops stores and fruit stands. Everything we’d read said buses ran between Pogradec and Korçë every half hour, from 0600 to 1730.

Sounded easy enough.

At the station, you just look for the bus with the destination posted on the windshield. You don’t buy a ticket ahead of time – payment happens when you arrive at your destination (and sometimes along the route). We found the right bus, hopped on, and by 9:55 the driver had the engine going, music playing, and the dashboard display all lit up.

The ride to Korçë takes about 45 minutes, and much like other Albanian routes we’ve taken, the bus makes a few seemingly random stops to let people on or off. It’s mostly open countryside, dotted with small farms, olive trees, grapevines, and cornfields.

The Korce bus terminal sits at the north end of town, on Rruga e Puga Myzeqeja.

Exploring the Old Bazaar

From the bus terminal, we headed first for Korçë’s Old Bazaar – partly because we wanted to see it, and partly because we were due for coffee.

The Old Bazaar (Pazari i Vjetër) is the historic heart of Korçë – a maze of cobblestone lanes lined with restored Ottoman-era buildings that now house cafés, boutique shops, and small inns. Once a bustling trade center where merchants sold textiles, spices, and handmade goods, it’s been carefully revitalized while keeping its old-world charm.

Today, you’ll find local artisans, vintage storefronts, and plenty of cozy coffee spots tucked between stone archways and terracotta roofs. It’s the kind of place that feels lived-in – and perfect for people like us who love to explore on foot.

Since we came after tourist season, the locals were out and about, the streets were calm, the pace unhurried. We wandered through the narrow lanes, browsed a few storefronts, and settled in for a coffee. It’s the kind of place that’s perfect for strolling and people-watching.

Cafés and cobblestone alleys in Korçë’s Old Bazaar

From the Bazaar to the Cathedral

Next we headed east toward Bulevardi Shën Gjergji, a pleasant pedestrian mall lined with shops and a few official-looking buildings. At the end of Bulevardi Shën Gjergji is the Resurrection of Christ Orthodox Cathedral (Katedralja Ortodokse “Ringjallja e Krishtit”).

Built in the 1990s after Albania’s communist era ended, this cathedral replaced one that was destroyed during the years when religion was banned. It’s now one of the largest Orthodox churches in the country and a symbol of renewal for Korçë’s faithful.

The church is stunning from the outside – all domes, arches, and warm stone.. We stepped inside the cathedral and were immediately greeted by a “no photos” sign – so to be respectful we took no photos – so you’ll have to take our word for it: it’s beautiful.

Wandering the Backstreets

Our next goal was the Museum of Medieval Art, but rather than take the direct route, we wandered through side streets to see a bit of the less-touristy Korçë.

If you go straight, it’s about 1.75 km (a little over a mile). Our meandering route turned it into closer to 2.9 km. The cobblestones are charming, but make sure you’re wearing good walking shoes – your feet will thank you.

Eventually, we ended up back on Bulevardi Fan Noli, passing the Oriental Museum “Bratko” (which looked closed that day).

The Museum of Medieval Art ( truly a hidden gem)

The Museum of Medieval Art in Korçë is one of the city’s cultural highlights – and honestly, it’s almost overwhelming in scope. The museum holds thousands of pieces of Orthodox religious art, including icons, carvings, and fragments of frescoes that somehow survived decades of state-enforced atheism during Albania’s communist years.

Many of the icons are centuries old, created by famous Albanian painters like Onufri and the Zografi brothers, whose work you’ll also see in churches across the Balkans. Knowing the history behind these pieces — and how close they came to being destroyed — makes the collection even more powerful.

The building itself is modern and beautifully lit, giving these medieval treasures the reverence they deserve. We were so impressed that we decided the museum deserved its own video.

Walking Bulevardi Fan Noli

Leaving the museum, we continued along Bulevardi Fan Noli, which runs as a divided boulevard with a pedestrian park between the two lanes. It’s a nice place for a walk, though the traffic circles force you to cross back and forth more than you’d expect from a pedestrian-friendly area.

We spotted public art installations, manicured flower beds, cafes and boutique shops along the way.

We were “Forced” to stay the night

Secret Pizza and an Unexpected Overnight

After exploring, we headed back to the Old Bazaar for another coffee and a sweet treat before returning to the bus terminal – only to find that the online schedules were wrong. The supposedly half-hour departures had already stopped for the day.

After a few failed attempts to get a taxi back to Pogradec, we decided to stay the night.

Sandra found us a $48 bed and breakfast just a few minutes from the terminal – clean, quiet, and convenient.

Dinner was an easy choice: we’d noticed Secret Pizza earlier in the day, and one of its reviews claimed it was the best pizza in Albania. We ordered a carbonara pizza and a bruschetta fantasy, both excellent. Add in a live musician and a drink called Raki (honey, orange juice, cinnamon, and local spirits), and it turned into a perfect evening.

Pizza carbonara, bruschetta, turkish coffee and raki at Secret Pizza, Korçë.

Morning at the Japanese Park

Breakfast at the B&B was massive – more food than two people could possibly finish.

After that, we grabbed a quick taxi (400 lek) to the Japanese Park we spotted yesterday, located right next to the Museum of Medieval Art.

The park isn’t exactly “Japanese” in the traditional sense – more a small green space with flower beds and a pond – but it’s a nice, quiet stop if you’re nearby.

If you’re visiting the Museum of Medieval Art anyway, it’s worth a short detour.

The Oriental Museum “Bratko”

This time, the Oriental Museum was open, so we stopped in. It features pieces collected by George Boria, with art and artifacts from Japan, Thailand, India, and even Africa.

It’s small but interesting—another quiet cultural find in a city that rewards curious wanderers.

Back to Pogradec (and Lessons Learned)

When it was finally time to head back, we confirmed with some locals that the real last bus to Pogradec leaves at 4:00 p.m. (not 5:30 as stated on several online sites).

The countryside rolled by again – olive groves, vineyards, and small farms…. it really is a beautiful country!

And the people are so friendly! When we arrived back in Pogradec, both the driver and another passenger tried to help us find our way – even though we’ve lived here for three months. Apparently, we still look American.

Why We Loved Korçë

Korçë may not be a big tourist city, but it’s a rewarding place to explore on foot. Between the Old Bazaar, Secret Pizza, the museums, and the friendly locals, it’s a great stop for anyone traveling through Albania.

And if you prefer to watch the video version of this adventure…